Monday, 27 April 2015

Technical - Theatrical Ageing

Health & Safety:
Ensure you place an apron around the model to prevent any damage to their clothing.
wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin.
Carry out a consultation with the client to highlight any allergies or contraindications.

Products Used:
Cleanser, Toner & Moisturiser
Cotton Pads
Cotton Buds
Supracolour Palette
Foundation Palette
Thin Brush
Translucent Powder
Disposable Mascara Wand
Makeup Sponge

Step by Step:
1. Use the cleanser, toner and moisturiser with the cotton pads and buds to remove any previous makeup or dirt off the skin and around the eyes to ensure the face is fresh and ready for the look.
2. Apply a basic base to the models face using the Kryolan foundation and concealer palette, matching the models natural skin tone.
3. Mix colours  from the supracolour palette to make a brown shade to contour the wrinkles into the face (mixing the green, yellow and red makes an appropriate brown shade).
4. Ask the model to make a number of exaggerated facial expressions that show the natural creases in their face (i.e. lines in the forehead, around the mouth, nose and eyes) and line these with the brown supracolour made using a thin brush)
5. Blend the lines marked out using either a brush or your fingers (remember the makeup is for theatre so even though they may look extravagant in normal light they will be on stage under lots of lighting and must be able to be seen by the audience).
6. Step 5 may be repeated to make the lines in the face more obvious.
7. Take a small amount of red supracolour and, using a sponge, lightly dab it on to areas of the face (such as the cheeks, tip of the nose and the tip of the chin) where veins break through age. Then using a brush or your fingers, blend this into the skin.
8. Finally use either the translucent powder or fixing spray to set the makeup.
*to complete the look use the hair ageing techniques to grey the eyebrows and/or the hair.

Evaluation:
I found this one of the harder technicals so far due to a few reasons. Firstly because I struggled with blending such bold colours into the skin, at some points I felt it looked like the face was just simply covered in patches of colours, but also because it was hard to picture how effective the look would be on stage as in the studio, close up it looked very unnatural and over the top but it would need to be for theatre. I have practised the look since but I think I need to gain some more practise in theatre makeup to understand and feel confident in how bold and obvious the makeup I am creating needs to be for theatre.

Creating Miss Havisham - Continuity Image

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips
Illamasqua Matte Primer
Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette (Alabaster)
Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Mini Palette (D2, D4, D6, D14, D16)
Illamasqua Translucent Powder
Kryolan Glamour Glow Palette (Bronzing Summer)
Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Eyeshadow Palette (Anis)
Kryolan SupraColour Palette (white & red)
Duo Glue
Metal Spatula
Disposable Mascara Wands 

Process of Creation - Makeup:
1. Begin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the face.
2. Take a small amount of Primer and brush it lightly all over the face.
3. Mix together the skin base foundation with a small amount of Alabaster Kryolan foundation and apply all over the face, ears and neck, then blend it in so its not thick on the face.
4. Take a small amount of D2, D4 and D6 from the camouflage mini pallet and apply it under the eyes and over any contraindications on the face, blending it in, making the skin look flawless.
5. Take a small amount of Duo and dab it on to the top of the forehead, near the hairline as well as on and around the lips and leave it to dry.
6. Next brush some translucent powder all over the face and neck to set the base and make the face look powdery (dusty).
7. Take the 'Bronzing summer' shade from the glamour glow palette and begin applying it around the eyes (on the eyelid as well as under the eye to create the appearance of bags under the eyes).
8. Then use the 'Anis' shade from the eyeshadow palette and apply it in the creases around the eyes and the mouth to give more depth (bend the colours so there are no harsh lines).
9. Using the same shade of eyeshadow contour the nose and blend the colour to make the nose look more rigid.
10. Take a small amount of the D14 shade from the camouflage mini palette and apply it all over the lips. Then use the D16 shade on the corners of the lips to make the edges slightly darker.
11. Using the metal spatula, drag it along the Duo glue applied to the forehead to rip it so it looks like peeling skin, also do this to the skin around the mouth. Then get the model to press their lips together so the glue on the lips goes tacky and looks like dry skin.
12. Take a tiny bit of red supracolour and lightly apply it to the rips in the glue on the forehead and then blend it out so it makes the skin look sore.
13. Use a small amount of white supracolour and apply it to a disposable mascara wand, then use the wand to apply the white to the eyelashes. Repeat this same step for both eyes and also the eyebrows (use a clean wand to comb the supracolour through the eyebrows further).
14. Finally use a brush covered with some translucent powder and brush over the whole face including the lips so nothing on the face is shiny and the whole look appears dull and dusty.

Process of Creation - Hair:
1. Begin by carefully brushing through the hair with a paddle brush to remove any tangles.
2. using the sectioning clips, separate the hair into small sections that will make it easier to curl (recommend splitting the hair into a bottom, middle and top layer to ensure all the hair is curled and making it easier).
3. Using the curling tongs, curl the hair section by section until the whole head of hair is complete.
4. Leaving two small curls loose at the front of the hair, take a small section of hair at the front of the head near the temple on either side and pull them towards the back of the head and loosely secure them with kirby grips.
5. Pull out small strands of hair from whats pinned back using the sectioning tail comb to make the hair look messier, as well as this use the comb to backcomb the curls so the hair looks bigger, messier and less perfect.
6. Finish of by applying dry shampoo all over the top of the head and some on the curls so the hair looks like its covered in dust.

WEEK ONE IMAGES:









WEEK TWO IMAGES:




Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles inspired by American Horror Story

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips

Step by Step

Preparation of the Hair:
1. Brush out the hair to remove any tangles before beginning the styling process.
2. Using the tail comb, create a side parting in the hair.
3. Take the curling tongs and curl the hair in one inch sections, away from the parting, fixing each one into a pin curl.
4. Repeat this process until all the hair is curled and the curls sit neatly in rows like bricks.
5. Leave the curls to set and cool.

Rich/Glamorous Hairstyle:
1. Begin by unpinning all the curls.
2. Then take the paddle brush and begin brushing through the curls gently both under and over the curls to form larger, softer curls.
3. Brush the curls so they sit further that the parting, creating nice curls around the face.
4. On the side of the hair opposite to the parting, brush the curls under and over so they sit right at the front, next to the face.
5. Back comb the roots of the hair to create more volume for the style.
6. Finally use hairspray to set the style and keep it in place.

Friday, 24 April 2015

Technical - Historical Victorian Hair

Health & Safety:
Ensure an apron is placed around the model to protect their clothing from damage.
Wash hands thoroughly with soap before touching the clients skin or hair.
Carry out a consultation with the client to establish any allergies to products or contraindications.

Plaits
Products Used:
Sectioning Grips
Paddle Brush
Small Sectioning Comb
Kirby Clips
Small Hairband
Hairspray

 Step by Step:
1. Brush through the hair using the paddle brush to remove any knots or tangles.
2. Using the Small sectioning comb, make a parting in the middle of the head, using the metal end to      separate and move small out of place hairs.
3. Repeat step 2, but instead of down the centre of the head, create another parting halfway across the     head from ear to ear.
4. Use sectioning grips to hold these front two sections of hair separate from the rest of the hair.
5. Brush back the rest of the hair into a ponytail and tie it with the small hairband.
6. Plait the front two sections of hair and bring them back to clip them to the base of the ponytail    using the kirby clips (keep the front 2 plaits loose enough to hang over the ears in a curve).
7. Then plait the ponytail at the back of the head and wrap it round to make a bun and pin it, using    some more kirby grips.
8. Finally use the hairspray to lightly spray the hair to secure it in place.

Ringlets 
Products Used:
Paddle Brush
Small Curling Tongs
Sectioning Grips
Small Sectioning Comb
Hairspray
Small Hairband

Step by Step:
1. Brush through the hair using the paddle brush to remove any knots or tangles.
2. Using the Small sectioning comb, make a parting in the middle of the head, using the metal end to      separate and move small out of place hairs.
3. Repeat step 2, but instead of down the centre of the head, create another parting halfway across the     head from ear to ear.
4. Use sectioning grips to hold these front two sections of hair separate from the rest of the hair.
5. Brush back the rest of the hair into a ponytail and tie it with the small hairband.
6. Twist the ponytail into a small bun in the centre of the back of the head and secure it with pins.
7. Take the curling tongs and a small section of hair, wrap the hair round the tongs and hold it for    between 6 to 10 seconds and then release the hair, pulling the tongs straight down out of the hair to create a tight curl. (you should be able to create approx. 4 equal curls)
8. Repeat this process (step 7) again on the other side of the head.
9. Take the hairspray and lightly spray over the hair to secure the curls and flatten any loose hairs sticking up.

Evaluation:
Overall I think I accomplished both the Historical Victorian hairstyles quite well. The looks are pretty straightforward which made it simple to follow and achieve. However the problem I did have with both the styles was to do with accuracy and symmetry. For the first style I had to make sure I separated the same amount of hair so the plaits were an even thickness and length which took some practise and for the ringlets it took me a while to make sure each section for each ringlet was the same width so the ringlets all looked the same. I think the ringlets were the biggest struggle to try and look the same but with a bit more practise I'm sure it will become much easier to accomplish symmetry with hairstyles.

Miss Havisham - Makeup Practise

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:

Illamasqua Matte Primer
Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette (Alabaster)
Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Mini Palette (D2, D4, D6, D14, D16)
Illamasqua Translucent Powder
Kryolan Glamour Glow Palette (Bronzing Summer)
Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Eyeshadow Palette (Anis)
Kryolan SupraColour Palette (white & red)
Duo Glue
Metal Spatula
Disposable Mascara Wands 

Process of Creation:
1. Begin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the face.
2. Take a small amount of Primer and brush it lightly all over the face.
3. Mix together the skin base foundation with a small amount of Alabaster Kryolan foundation and apply all over the face, ears and neck, then blend it in so its not thick on the face.
4. Take a small amount of D2, D4 and D6 from the camouflage mini pallet and apply it under the eyes and over any contraindications on the face, blending it in, making the skin look flawless.
5. Take a small amount of Duo and dab it on to the top of the forehead, near the hairline as well as on and around the lips and leave it to dry.
6. Next brush some translucent powder all over the face and neck to set the base and make the face look powdery (dusty).
7. Take the 'Bronzing summer' shade from the glamour glow palette and begin applying it around the eyes (on the eyelid as well as under the eye to create the appearance of bags under the eyes).
8. Then use the 'Anis' shade from the eyeshadow palette and apply it in the creases around the eyes and the mouth to give more depth (bend the colours so there are no harsh lines).
9. Using the same shade of eyeshadow contour the nose and blend the colour to make the nose look more rigid.
10. Take a small amount of the D14 shade from the camouflage mini palette and apply it all over the lips. Then use the D16 shade on the corners of the lips to make the edges slightly darker.
11. Using the metal spatula, drag it along the Duo glue applied to the forehead to rip it so it looks like peeling skin, also do this to the skin around the mouth. Then get the model to press their lips together so the glue on the lips goes tacky and looks like dry skin.
12. Take a tiny bit of red supracolour and lightly apply it to the rips in the glue on the forehead and then blend it out so it makes the skin look sore.
13. Use a small amount of white supracolour and apply it to a disposable mascara wand, then use the wand to apply the white to the eyelashes. Repeat this same step for both eyes and also the eyebrows (use a clean wand to comb the supracolour through the eyebrows further).
14. Finally use a brush covered with some translucent powder and brush over the whole face including the lips so nothing on the face is shiny and the whole look appears dull and dusty.


 Evaluation:
Overall I was very happy with the final result of my makeup practise for Miss Havisham, I feel that the final look was effective for the character. However when I completed the practise I did the hair as well to ensure I could complete the entire look within the 2 hour assessment time and I didn't realise that the hair would take me as long as it did so I spent more time on the makeup detail meaning when it came to completing the hair I didn't have enough time. Therefore I need to complete at least one more practise so I can complete the make up look in as much detail as I have here but in a shorter period of time so I have more time to do the hair.
The only other issue I will have to practise with the makeup is making sure that the peeling skin I created using Duo at the top of the head and around the mouth looks exactly the same each time I do it so its the same in the continuity assessment, however this is just something I am going to have to keep practising before the assessment.

Miss Havisham - Hair Practise

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips

Process of Creation:
1. Begin by carefully brushing through the hair with a paddle brush to remove any tangles.
2. using the sectioning clips, separate the hair into small sections that will make it easier to curl (recommend splitting the hair into a bottom, middle and top layer to ensure all the hair is curled and making it easier).
3. Using the curling tongs, curl the hair section by section until the whole head of hair is complete.
4. Leaving two small curls loose at the front of the hair, take a small section of hair at the front of the head near the temple on either side and pull them towards the back of the head and loosely secure them with kirby grips.
5. Pull out small strands of hair from whats pinned back using the sectioning tail comb to make the hair look messier, as well as this use the comb to backcomb the curls so the hair looks bigger, messier and less perfect.
6. Finish of by applying dry shampoo all over the top of the head and some on the curls so the hair looks like its covered in dust.


Evaluation:
Overall I was satisfied with the outcome of my 'Miss Havisham' hair practise and the final result was exactly what I wanted. However one of the main issues I faced with this is that when I practised the hair I also practised the makeup look too and wanted to practise doing it within the allotted 2 hours we have for the assessment. Before the practise I didn't think the hair would take me very long as my model has quite short hair so I spent more time on perfecting the details of the makeup, however I didn't realise that although the hair was quite short it was very thick, meaning I needed to section off the hair more and it would take longer to curl.
Therefore I am going to have another practise outside of studio time and try and complete the whole look in the time we have otherwise I will struggle with timing in the assessment. The only other issue I had in the practise, which was minor but annoying, was that there wasn't enough dry shampoo to go round so I ended up not using any so couldn't see what the final style looked like with the dusty hair as well. However I'll be practising again before the assessment so will be able to see then as I'm going to buy my own supply of dry shampoo for the assessment to make sure I definitely have enough.











Creating Estella

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips
Illamasqua Matte Primer
Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette (Alabaster)
Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Mini Palette (D2, D4, D6)
Illamasqua Translucent Powder
Gosh Giant Sunpowder Bronzer
Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Eyeshadow Palette (Ginger)
Kryolan Lip Rouge Mini Palette (LC142)
Maybelline New York 'The Colossal Extreme' Mascara (Leather Black)

Process of Creation - Makeup:
1. Begin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the face.
2. Take a small amount of Primer and brush it lightly all over the face.
3. Mix together the skin base foundation with a small amount of Alabaster Kryolan foundation and apply all over the face, ears and neck, then blend it in so its not thick on the face.
4. Take a small amount of D2, D4 and D6 from the camouflage mini pallet and apply it under the eyes and over any contraindications on the face, blending it in, making the skin look flawless.
5. Next lightly brush some translucent powder all over the face and neck to set the base.
6. Take the 'Gosh Sunpowder' bronzer and, using a large brush, lightly brush it over the cheeks, creating a light glow (remember to blend the edges so its not bold).
7. Using the 'Ginger' shade from the eyeshadow palette, cover the both eyelids, and blend up to just over the brow bone in a 'cat-eye' like shape.
8. Using a disposable mascara wand, apply the mascara all over the top lashes but NOT the bottom
9. Then using LC142 from the lip palette, apply the colour all over the lips.
10. Finally apply a small amount of vaseline all over the lips, down the bridge of the nose and on the cheek bones to create the appearance of 'dewy' skin.

Process of Creation - Hair:
1. Begin by carefully brushing through the hair with a paddle brush to remove any tangles.
2. using the sectioning clips, separate the hair into small sections that will make it easier to curl (recommend splitting the hair into a bottom, middle and top layer to ensure all the hair is curled and making it easier).
3. Using the curling tongs, curl the hair section by section until the whole head of hair is complete.
4. Take a small section of hair at the front of the head near the temple on either side and plait them two thirds of the way down the hair.
5. Pull the plaits towards the back of the head and secure them with one or two Kirby grips (depending on how thick both the plait and the hair is), however make sure the plaits are not pulled back tightly but are able to hand with a light curve over the ears.
6. Finish of with hairspray all over the hair to set the curls.











Thursday, 23 April 2015

Victorian Hairstyle - Miss Havisham & Estelle

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.





Products Used:
Paddle Brush
Sectioning Tail Comb
Hair Curling Tongs
Kirby Grips
Hair Pins
Sectioning Clips
Hairspray


Step By Step:
1. Begin by brushing through the hair to relieve any tangles.
2. Separate a front section of hair from just behind the ears, across the head from ear to ear.
3. Split the front section of hair in the middle and, using two sectioning clips, secure the hair either side of the head, separating it from the rest of the hair.
4. Once this is done move on to taking small sections of hair from the rest of the hair and curling it into ringlets.
5. Once all the hair is curled, take the paddle brush and, starting from the front of the hair, brush the hair back so the top of the hair is flat and the curls sit in a ponytail-like shape at the back of the head.
6. Secure the curls at the back with hair pins and Kirby grips.
7. Take the two sections of hair you separated at the start and twist them tightly and curve them round so they sit across the ears and clip under the curls.
8. Finish off with hairspray to secure the look.





Thursday, 16 April 2015

Dark Eyes & Lips


Health & Safety:
Ensure you place an apron around the client/model to prevent damaging or dirtying their clothes.
Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin.
Remember to carry out a consultation with the client to highlight any allergies or contraindications.

Products Used:
Cleanser, Toner, Moisturiser
Cotton Pads & Buds
Foundation Palette
Concealer Palette
Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo Palette (Heliopolis)
Illamasqua Neutral Palette (Wolf)
Small fluffy brush
Blending Brush
Black Gel Eyeliner
Black Mascara
Disposable Mascara Wand
Kryolan Lip Rouge Mini Palette (LC008 & LC010)

Step by Step:
1. Begin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the skin with cotton pads and buds to ensure the face is clean from any previous makeup or dirt.

2. Apply a simple base using the foundation and concealer palette to make the skin look flawless and natural. (match the colour of the base to the colour of skin on the neck).
3. Take a small amount of the 'Heliopolis' shade from the Sculpting Powder Duo Palette and, using a soft brush, start to apply it to both the eyelids as a neutral base for the darker shades later.
4. Next take the 'Wolf' eyeshadow shade from the Neutral Palette (this is a dark matte black), begin applying it from the outside corner of the eye, going along the natural crease of the eyelid and along the bottom of the lid, just above the eyelashes.
5. Begin blending the colour inwards, in circular motions, gradually covering the entire lid (be careful not to go to high up onto the brow bone so the makeup does not look over the top).
6. Repeat step 5, however remember to make the outside corner of the eye darker than the rest of the lid.
7. Using an appropriate and clean brush blend the eyeshadow so the edges are soft and the differences in the darkness of the shade blend into each other nicely.
8. Using a small amount of the 'Wolf' shade, create a small line of shadow under the bottom waterline, that carries on from the edge of the eyeshadow on the lid.
9. Take a thin liner brush with the black gel liner, create a thin line just on top of the eyelashes and on the bottom lids waterline to enhance the eyes.
10. Using the black mascara and a disposable wand, cover the eyelashes in mascara.
11. Finish of the look by mixing together the two lip rouge shades (LC008 & LC010) to create a deep purple, and taking a lip brush, apply it all over the models lips.


Technical - Creating Light Scaring & A Cut Lip

Health & Safety:
Make sure your hands are washed thoroughly with soap before you touch the models skin.
Protect the model/clients clothes from damage by placing an apron around them.
Carry out a client consultation to establish any allergies and/or contraindications.

Products Used:
Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser
Barrier Foam
Collodian
Spatula
Hairdryer
Supracolour Palette (red & Black)
Fake Blood (optional) 

Step by Step:
1. Take and apply a foam barrier in order to protect the skin from any harsh chemicals in the product.
2. Take some Collodion and apply it where you want it (in this case directly down the side of the top lip)
3. Take a spatula and make a light dent in the Collodion
4. Take a hairdryer on its coolest setting and lightly dry the area.
5. Then repeat steps 2,3 & 4.
6. If you are creating an old scar that is all you need to do, however if you want to create a cut lip you could then apply make-up and blood to the area in order to make the cut look more visible and realistic.



Evaluation:
The Process of creating an old scar or cut lip, I found, very straight forward and simple to accomplish. I don't feel there was anything to technical involved and therefore enjoyed creating the wound and experimenting with colours and fake blood.

Technical - Creping of the Skin

Health & Safety:
Make sure you place an apron round the client to protect their clothes from any damage and/or stains.
Make sure your hands are washed thoroughly with soap before touching the clients skin.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to discover any allergies or contraindications.

Products Used:
Cleanser, Toner & Moisturiser
Cotton Pads
Barrier Cream
Liquid Latex (old age stipple)
Small Bowl
Foundation Palette
Supracolour Palette
Foundation Brush
Thin brush
Non-latex sponge
Stippling Sponge
Disposable Mascara Wand
Hair Dryer
Powder Puff
Translucent Powder

Creping the Skin -  Step by Step:
Before Ageing
1. Ensure the area of skin you wish to use is clean of any dirt or makeup
2. Pour the old age stipple into a bowl
3. Apply a small amount of the barrier cream to the skin you wish to use and rub it into the skin
4. Stretch the area of the skin you wish to apply the stipple to (if its the hand you can get the model to clench their hand and then stretch the skin further yourself to increase the stretching of the skin).
5. Using your non-latex sponge dab the stipple on to the skin in an even layer.
6. allow it to dry and then powder it.
7. The number of times you repeat steps 5 and 6 depends on what extent you want the skin to age.
8. Finally take a foundation that matches the skin tone of the model and cover over the stipple to make it more realistic.
After Ageing
9. Finish off with dabbing translucent powder over the area or using a fixing spray to keep the makeup in place.

Evaluation:
Out of all the special effects techniques we have learnt I have struggled with this one the most. When we practiced this in glass I didnt have very good results so I have since practised in my own time (the images on the right) and it did go slightly better. However I have found that as I am dabbing the stipple on, in some areas it begins to peel which is annoying and ruins the effect. I have also found it hard to match the skin colour over the stipple to the rest of the skin making it look very unnatural. I think in this case, it will just be a matter of continuous practise until I achieve my desired look.





Technical - Scratches & Wounds


Health & Safety:
Make sure you place an apron round the model to avoid damaging or staining their clothes
Make sure the area where you are going to create the scratches is clean
Ensure you wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the clients skin
Remember to carry out a client consultation to establish any allergies and/or contraindications

Products Used:
Supracolour Palette (red, black, purple, yellow, blue)
Foundation Palette
Scar Wax
Wound Filler
Fake Blood
Stipple Sponge
Scar Wax
Spirit Gum
Witch Hazel
Cotton Buds

Step by Step:
Depending on what type of scratch you wish to create, depends on what products and tools you need to create it successfully.

Scratches:
1. To create a simple scratch (I went for the idea of an animals claws scratching the arm) simply take some scar wax and roll it around on the back of your hand to warm it up slightly and make it easier to manipulate on the skin.
2. If you wish to secure the wax to the skin more you can
apply spirit gum to the area, however this is not always necessary.
3. Roll the wax into a sausage shape and place it on the area you
wish to create the scratches.
4. taking a spatula, begin to spread the wax across the skin, stretching it out and flattening into the skin. This takes time and patience so don't rush, and how flat you need the wax
will depend on what type of wound you wish to create. As I was creating some simple scratches I needed the wax pretty flat on the skin.
5. once you are happy with the shape and thickness of the wax, take a spatula and slowly begin slicing lines in the wax (I did 9 slices as I wanted to create 9 scratches).
6. Then, keeping hold of the spatula, push the wax either side of the scratch out slightly in order to make a dent so it looks like the scratch is deeper then the layer of skin.
7.  Using the foundation palette apply a light layer of the foundation to the wax so it matches the skin tone of the model.
8. Then take your supracolours and apply them to the scratches to make them look real (I mixed red and black to make a dark red and applied to the inside of the scratches making them look deeper, then applied red on the edges to make them look bloody).
9.  Lastly I applied a tiny amount of wound filler to some of the scratches to make it look slightly more realistic.

Graze:
1. Make sure the area you wish to create the graze is clean.
2. Take a red supracolour and apply it to a stipple sponge (you could also use fake blood depending on what look you wish to create).
3. Drag the sponge over the area of skin you wish to create the graze.
4. Take a small brush and apply small parts of black supra colour to the graze to make it look like dirt.

Wounds:
One of the easiest ways to create a wound is to use a pre-made prosthetic, commonly made from gelatine or latex using a mould. You can make a mould from plastic or another material but whatever you use must be sprayed with release spray or covered in a layer of vaseline to avoid the gelatine/latex sticking to it when you wish to remove it from the mould.

1. For my prosthetic wound I used gelatine so, once you have a mould ready, heat up the gelatine in a microwave for approx. 10 seconds (however long it takes to melt the gelatine completely but not burn it) and pour it into your mould.
2. Once your prosthetic has set remove it from the mould, to apply the prosthetic to the chosen area of skin you need to stick it with PROS AIDE (this is a contact adhesive therefore you need to paint it on to the bottom of the prosthetic as well as onto the area of skin you wish to place it and wait for it to turn clear).
3. Once the prosthetic is stuck onto the skin firmly you can begin blending the edges into the skin using WITCH HAZEL on cotton buds and slowly rubbing the edges of the gelatine backwards and forwards.
4. Once you are happy with the edges of the prosthetic and you feel they blend in to the skin nicely you can begin colouring the prosthetic using the Supracolour palette.
5. I began by using a sponge and dabbing it over the prosthetic with the red supracolour to make the area look sore.
6. Then I coloured the inside of the womb with red and black supracolour.
7. Finally I used wound filler to fill parts if the inside of the prosthetic, making its appearance more realistic.
8. You can finish by spraying fixing spray over the prosthetic to hold the colours in place, this is especially effective when working outdoors to avoid rain making the colours run.

Evaluation:
I really enjoyed the technical for applying prosthetics. As prosthetics is a huge interest to me and one of the ways I wish to take my makeup career, I was keen to learn more about it. The use of adhesives and how different products work to blend the gelatine in to the skin really interested me.
I found the whole process quite long and complex, remembering which product was for what but once I got into it I enjoyed working the gelatine into the skin and applying the makeup to it to make it look as realistic as possible.
My main struggle was flattening the edges of the gelatine into the skin and from my images you can see that this wasn't entirely successful, however for a first attempt I was quite impressed with my final results. I feel that a bit more practice working with the prosthetics will enable me to create much better results in the future.





Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Ageing Hair

Health & Safety:
Place an apron round the models neck to ensure their clothing is protected from any stains or damage.
Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Ensure you conduct a client consultation to check for any allergies, infections or contraindications.

Equipment Used:
- Dry Shampoo
- Supracolour Palette (Black and White)
- Disposable Mascara Wands (x2)

Step by Step:
1. If you wish to turn the whole head of hair grey then you are best off using a dry shampoo. This is easily done by spraying the areas of the hair you wish to turn grey with the dry shampoo and then slightly rubbing it through so the product doesn't just sit on the head . You can keep repeating this process until the level of grey you want is achieved.

2. However if you are looking to turn a small amount of hair grey, for example; eyelashes, eyebrows, small strands of hair or facial hair then you are better of using the black and white in the supracolour palette. Mix together the black and white supracolour (the amount of each colour you use depends on what shade of grey you wish to achieve - the more black the darker the shade of grey/the more white the lighter the shade of grey will be). Take a disposable mascara wand and run it through the mixed supracolour. Begin combing the supracolour through the hair you wish to make grey until the area is covered. Then take the clean disposable wand and comb the area. This will prevent the grey supracolour looking like its sitting on the hair and will instead make the grey hair look more realistic.

Evaluation:
I found the process of ageing hair quite straightforward and easy enough to accomplish, therefore it was not a struggle to achieve. However after experimenting on different hair types I have found that dry shampoo can struggle to both appear grey on some hair types as well as sticking to some hair types. However I think the way around this would just simply be to have to keep repeating the process when necessary.


Sunday, 12 April 2015

Technical - Burns

Health & Safety:
- complete a client consultation form in order to establish any allergies or contraindications.
- ensure you place an apron around the client to protect their clothes from any damage or stains.
- remember to wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the clients skin.

Products used:
Latex
Stipple Sponge
Spatula
Microwave
Microwavable Bowl
Small Brush
Translucent Powder
Fake Puss
Cotton Bud
Stiff Brush for applying colour
soft brush for blending colour
Supracolour palette
Hairdryer

Step by Step:
1. Place a block of gelatine into a microwaveable bowl. (the amount of gelatine you use will depend on how big a burn you wish to create).
2. Melt the gelatine in the microwave for 10 seconds or until it is fully dissolved (make sure the gelatine does not burn).
3. Before applying to the client/models skin test the temperature of the gelatine on the back of the hand (it should be warm but not too hot to scold the skin).
4. Using  a spatula, smear the gelatine on to the selected area of skin where you wish to create the burn.
5. Once the gelatine has set, take a cotton bud dipped in hot water and smooth any rough edges, blending them into the skin surrounding the burn.
6. Once the gelatine has set, take a small amount of translucent powder and dab it over the gelatine in a thin layer.
7. Take the supracolour palette and, using a small brush, apply colour to the gelatine to make the burn look more realistic (think about using purple, yellow and red tones) and then blend the colours using a soft brush or/and your fingers.
8. To create depth, apply a small amount of darker supracolour to areas of the burn (e.g. browns and blacks).
9. To make the burn appear sore, dab red supracolour around the edges of the burn where the gelatine meets the skin, as well as taking a stippling sponge and dabbing red over the burn itself.
10. Take a cotton bud and rub it over small areas of the gelatine to remove the makeup and create the appearance of blistering.
11. Finally you can, if you wish to, apply some fake puss to areas of the burn to create the appearance of an infection.


Evaluation:
I really enjoyed the technical on creating burns, I am very interested in going down the special effects route and so learning to create injuries like this really fascinates me. I enjoyed working with and manipulating the gelatine and experimenting with colour to make the burn look more realistic and severe.
After the technical I then bought some regular gelatine of my own and continued to experiment with various types of burns of my own which I also found very interesting and I was very pleased with the results.