Monday, 27 April 2015

Technical - Theatrical Ageing

Health & Safety:
Ensure you place an apron around the model to prevent any damage to their clothing.
wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin.
Carry out a consultation with the client to highlight any allergies or contraindications.

Products Used:
Cleanser, Toner & Moisturiser
Cotton Pads
Cotton Buds
Supracolour Palette
Foundation Palette
Thin Brush
Translucent Powder
Disposable Mascara Wand
Makeup Sponge

Step by Step:
1. Use the cleanser, toner and moisturiser with the cotton pads and buds to remove any previous makeup or dirt off the skin and around the eyes to ensure the face is fresh and ready for the look.
2. Apply a basic base to the models face using the Kryolan foundation and concealer palette, matching the models natural skin tone.
3. Mix colours  from the supracolour palette to make a brown shade to contour the wrinkles into the face (mixing the green, yellow and red makes an appropriate brown shade).
4. Ask the model to make a number of exaggerated facial expressions that show the natural creases in their face (i.e. lines in the forehead, around the mouth, nose and eyes) and line these with the brown supracolour made using a thin brush)
5. Blend the lines marked out using either a brush or your fingers (remember the makeup is for theatre so even though they may look extravagant in normal light they will be on stage under lots of lighting and must be able to be seen by the audience).
6. Step 5 may be repeated to make the lines in the face more obvious.
7. Take a small amount of red supracolour and, using a sponge, lightly dab it on to areas of the face (such as the cheeks, tip of the nose and the tip of the chin) where veins break through age. Then using a brush or your fingers, blend this into the skin.
8. Finally use either the translucent powder or fixing spray to set the makeup.
*to complete the look use the hair ageing techniques to grey the eyebrows and/or the hair.

Evaluation:
I found this one of the harder technicals so far due to a few reasons. Firstly because I struggled with blending such bold colours into the skin, at some points I felt it looked like the face was just simply covered in patches of colours, but also because it was hard to picture how effective the look would be on stage as in the studio, close up it looked very unnatural and over the top but it would need to be for theatre. I have practised the look since but I think I need to gain some more practise in theatre makeup to understand and feel confident in how bold and obvious the makeup I am creating needs to be for theatre.

Creating Miss Havisham - Continuity Image

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips
Illamasqua Matte Primer
Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette (Alabaster)
Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Mini Palette (D2, D4, D6, D14, D16)
Illamasqua Translucent Powder
Kryolan Glamour Glow Palette (Bronzing Summer)
Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Eyeshadow Palette (Anis)
Kryolan SupraColour Palette (white & red)
Duo Glue
Metal Spatula
Disposable Mascara Wands 

Process of Creation - Makeup:
1. Begin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the face.
2. Take a small amount of Primer and brush it lightly all over the face.
3. Mix together the skin base foundation with a small amount of Alabaster Kryolan foundation and apply all over the face, ears and neck, then blend it in so its not thick on the face.
4. Take a small amount of D2, D4 and D6 from the camouflage mini pallet and apply it under the eyes and over any contraindications on the face, blending it in, making the skin look flawless.
5. Take a small amount of Duo and dab it on to the top of the forehead, near the hairline as well as on and around the lips and leave it to dry.
6. Next brush some translucent powder all over the face and neck to set the base and make the face look powdery (dusty).
7. Take the 'Bronzing summer' shade from the glamour glow palette and begin applying it around the eyes (on the eyelid as well as under the eye to create the appearance of bags under the eyes).
8. Then use the 'Anis' shade from the eyeshadow palette and apply it in the creases around the eyes and the mouth to give more depth (bend the colours so there are no harsh lines).
9. Using the same shade of eyeshadow contour the nose and blend the colour to make the nose look more rigid.
10. Take a small amount of the D14 shade from the camouflage mini palette and apply it all over the lips. Then use the D16 shade on the corners of the lips to make the edges slightly darker.
11. Using the metal spatula, drag it along the Duo glue applied to the forehead to rip it so it looks like peeling skin, also do this to the skin around the mouth. Then get the model to press their lips together so the glue on the lips goes tacky and looks like dry skin.
12. Take a tiny bit of red supracolour and lightly apply it to the rips in the glue on the forehead and then blend it out so it makes the skin look sore.
13. Use a small amount of white supracolour and apply it to a disposable mascara wand, then use the wand to apply the white to the eyelashes. Repeat this same step for both eyes and also the eyebrows (use a clean wand to comb the supracolour through the eyebrows further).
14. Finally use a brush covered with some translucent powder and brush over the whole face including the lips so nothing on the face is shiny and the whole look appears dull and dusty.

Process of Creation - Hair:
1. Begin by carefully brushing through the hair with a paddle brush to remove any tangles.
2. using the sectioning clips, separate the hair into small sections that will make it easier to curl (recommend splitting the hair into a bottom, middle and top layer to ensure all the hair is curled and making it easier).
3. Using the curling tongs, curl the hair section by section until the whole head of hair is complete.
4. Leaving two small curls loose at the front of the hair, take a small section of hair at the front of the head near the temple on either side and pull them towards the back of the head and loosely secure them with kirby grips.
5. Pull out small strands of hair from whats pinned back using the sectioning tail comb to make the hair look messier, as well as this use the comb to backcomb the curls so the hair looks bigger, messier and less perfect.
6. Finish of by applying dry shampoo all over the top of the head and some on the curls so the hair looks like its covered in dust.

WEEK ONE IMAGES:









WEEK TWO IMAGES:




Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles inspired by American Horror Story

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips

Step by Step

Preparation of the Hair:
1. Brush out the hair to remove any tangles before beginning the styling process.
2. Using the tail comb, create a side parting in the hair.
3. Take the curling tongs and curl the hair in one inch sections, away from the parting, fixing each one into a pin curl.
4. Repeat this process until all the hair is curled and the curls sit neatly in rows like bricks.
5. Leave the curls to set and cool.

Rich/Glamorous Hairstyle:
1. Begin by unpinning all the curls.
2. Then take the paddle brush and begin brushing through the curls gently both under and over the curls to form larger, softer curls.
3. Brush the curls so they sit further that the parting, creating nice curls around the face.
4. On the side of the hair opposite to the parting, brush the curls under and over so they sit right at the front, next to the face.
5. Back comb the roots of the hair to create more volume for the style.
6. Finally use hairspray to set the style and keep it in place.

Friday, 24 April 2015

Technical - Historical Victorian Hair

Health & Safety:
Ensure an apron is placed around the model to protect their clothing from damage.
Wash hands thoroughly with soap before touching the clients skin or hair.
Carry out a consultation with the client to establish any allergies to products or contraindications.

Plaits
Products Used:
Sectioning Grips
Paddle Brush
Small Sectioning Comb
Kirby Clips
Small Hairband
Hairspray

 Step by Step:
1. Brush through the hair using the paddle brush to remove any knots or tangles.
2. Using the Small sectioning comb, make a parting in the middle of the head, using the metal end to      separate and move small out of place hairs.
3. Repeat step 2, but instead of down the centre of the head, create another parting halfway across the     head from ear to ear.
4. Use sectioning grips to hold these front two sections of hair separate from the rest of the hair.
5. Brush back the rest of the hair into a ponytail and tie it with the small hairband.
6. Plait the front two sections of hair and bring them back to clip them to the base of the ponytail    using the kirby clips (keep the front 2 plaits loose enough to hang over the ears in a curve).
7. Then plait the ponytail at the back of the head and wrap it round to make a bun and pin it, using    some more kirby grips.
8. Finally use the hairspray to lightly spray the hair to secure it in place.

Ringlets 
Products Used:
Paddle Brush
Small Curling Tongs
Sectioning Grips
Small Sectioning Comb
Hairspray
Small Hairband

Step by Step:
1. Brush through the hair using the paddle brush to remove any knots or tangles.
2. Using the Small sectioning comb, make a parting in the middle of the head, using the metal end to      separate and move small out of place hairs.
3. Repeat step 2, but instead of down the centre of the head, create another parting halfway across the     head from ear to ear.
4. Use sectioning grips to hold these front two sections of hair separate from the rest of the hair.
5. Brush back the rest of the hair into a ponytail and tie it with the small hairband.
6. Twist the ponytail into a small bun in the centre of the back of the head and secure it with pins.
7. Take the curling tongs and a small section of hair, wrap the hair round the tongs and hold it for    between 6 to 10 seconds and then release the hair, pulling the tongs straight down out of the hair to create a tight curl. (you should be able to create approx. 4 equal curls)
8. Repeat this process (step 7) again on the other side of the head.
9. Take the hairspray and lightly spray over the hair to secure the curls and flatten any loose hairs sticking up.

Evaluation:
Overall I think I accomplished both the Historical Victorian hairstyles quite well. The looks are pretty straightforward which made it simple to follow and achieve. However the problem I did have with both the styles was to do with accuracy and symmetry. For the first style I had to make sure I separated the same amount of hair so the plaits were an even thickness and length which took some practise and for the ringlets it took me a while to make sure each section for each ringlet was the same width so the ringlets all looked the same. I think the ringlets were the biggest struggle to try and look the same but with a bit more practise I'm sure it will become much easier to accomplish symmetry with hairstyles.

Miss Havisham - Makeup Practise

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:

Illamasqua Matte Primer
Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette (Alabaster)
Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Mini Palette (D2, D4, D6, D14, D16)
Illamasqua Translucent Powder
Kryolan Glamour Glow Palette (Bronzing Summer)
Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Eyeshadow Palette (Anis)
Kryolan SupraColour Palette (white & red)
Duo Glue
Metal Spatula
Disposable Mascara Wands 

Process of Creation:
1. Begin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the face.
2. Take a small amount of Primer and brush it lightly all over the face.
3. Mix together the skin base foundation with a small amount of Alabaster Kryolan foundation and apply all over the face, ears and neck, then blend it in so its not thick on the face.
4. Take a small amount of D2, D4 and D6 from the camouflage mini pallet and apply it under the eyes and over any contraindications on the face, blending it in, making the skin look flawless.
5. Take a small amount of Duo and dab it on to the top of the forehead, near the hairline as well as on and around the lips and leave it to dry.
6. Next brush some translucent powder all over the face and neck to set the base and make the face look powdery (dusty).
7. Take the 'Bronzing summer' shade from the glamour glow palette and begin applying it around the eyes (on the eyelid as well as under the eye to create the appearance of bags under the eyes).
8. Then use the 'Anis' shade from the eyeshadow palette and apply it in the creases around the eyes and the mouth to give more depth (bend the colours so there are no harsh lines).
9. Using the same shade of eyeshadow contour the nose and blend the colour to make the nose look more rigid.
10. Take a small amount of the D14 shade from the camouflage mini palette and apply it all over the lips. Then use the D16 shade on the corners of the lips to make the edges slightly darker.
11. Using the metal spatula, drag it along the Duo glue applied to the forehead to rip it so it looks like peeling skin, also do this to the skin around the mouth. Then get the model to press their lips together so the glue on the lips goes tacky and looks like dry skin.
12. Take a tiny bit of red supracolour and lightly apply it to the rips in the glue on the forehead and then blend it out so it makes the skin look sore.
13. Use a small amount of white supracolour and apply it to a disposable mascara wand, then use the wand to apply the white to the eyelashes. Repeat this same step for both eyes and also the eyebrows (use a clean wand to comb the supracolour through the eyebrows further).
14. Finally use a brush covered with some translucent powder and brush over the whole face including the lips so nothing on the face is shiny and the whole look appears dull and dusty.


 Evaluation:
Overall I was very happy with the final result of my makeup practise for Miss Havisham, I feel that the final look was effective for the character. However when I completed the practise I did the hair as well to ensure I could complete the entire look within the 2 hour assessment time and I didn't realise that the hair would take me as long as it did so I spent more time on the makeup detail meaning when it came to completing the hair I didn't have enough time. Therefore I need to complete at least one more practise so I can complete the make up look in as much detail as I have here but in a shorter period of time so I have more time to do the hair.
The only other issue I will have to practise with the makeup is making sure that the peeling skin I created using Duo at the top of the head and around the mouth looks exactly the same each time I do it so its the same in the continuity assessment, however this is just something I am going to have to keep practising before the assessment.

Miss Havisham - Hair Practise

Health & Safety:
Wash your hands thoroughly with soap before touching the models skin or hair.
Remember to conduct a client consultation to highlight any allergies or contraindications.
Place an apron around the model to prevent any damage or stains to their clothes.

Products Used:
Sectioning Tail Comb
Paddle Brush
Curling Tongs
Kirby Clips
Sectioning Grips

Process of Creation:
1. Begin by carefully brushing through the hair with a paddle brush to remove any tangles.
2. using the sectioning clips, separate the hair into small sections that will make it easier to curl (recommend splitting the hair into a bottom, middle and top layer to ensure all the hair is curled and making it easier).
3. Using the curling tongs, curl the hair section by section until the whole head of hair is complete.
4. Leaving two small curls loose at the front of the hair, take a small section of hair at the front of the head near the temple on either side and pull them towards the back of the head and loosely secure them with kirby grips.
5. Pull out small strands of hair from whats pinned back using the sectioning tail comb to make the hair look messier, as well as this use the comb to backcomb the curls so the hair looks bigger, messier and less perfect.
6. Finish of by applying dry shampoo all over the top of the head and some on the curls so the hair looks like its covered in dust.


Evaluation:
Overall I was satisfied with the outcome of my 'Miss Havisham' hair practise and the final result was exactly what I wanted. However one of the main issues I faced with this is that when I practised the hair I also practised the makeup look too and wanted to practise doing it within the allotted 2 hours we have for the assessment. Before the practise I didn't think the hair would take me very long as my model has quite short hair so I spent more time on perfecting the details of the makeup, however I didn't realise that although the hair was quite short it was very thick, meaning I needed to section off the hair more and it would take longer to curl.
Therefore I am going to have another practise outside of studio time and try and complete the whole look in the time we have otherwise I will struggle with timing in the assessment. The only other issue I had in the practise, which was minor but annoying, was that there wasn't enough dry shampoo to go round so I ended up not using any so couldn't see what the final style looked like with the dusty hair as well. However I'll be practising again before the assessment so will be able to see then as I'm going to buy my own supply of dry shampoo for the assessment to make sure I definitely have enough.